Deserted and demolished Temples and Shrines in POJK (Mirpur-Muzaffarabad)
   22-Feb-2020

Sharda Temple_1 &nbs
 
People are generally aware of the revered Sharda Peeth but are not so aware of other places of reverence. The location of shrines clearly indicates that the culture of the region is like that of other parts of Ladakh and Jammu and Kashmir. As territory under Chinese occupation is generally devoid of habitation, these shrines are generally located in POJK and POTL. The chapter describes the shrines of minority communities.
 
 
Deteriorated condition of Shrines, Temples and Gurudwaras in POJK
 
 
Pakistan invaded Jammu and Kashmir State on 20th October 1947. The raids continued and when UN mandated ceasefire was imposed on 1 Jan 1949, Pakistan retained control of the territories it had occupied. During the invasions, which were extremely brutal, thousands of Non-Muslims were killed, scores were converted, and thousands escaped to areas of Jammu-Kashmir under Indian control. Many temples and shrines had been destroyed post 1359, when Islamic invasions started in earnest. However, many temples and shrines were still functioning during Maharaja's rule and faced sudden closure, after the area came under Pakistan's occupation. The information about existing temples and shrines in POJK is very sketchy as the area is almost completely Muslim.
 
 
Sharda Temple and University – one of the three holiest sites of pilgrimage for Kashmiri Pandits
 
 
The most well-known shrine in the entire region is undoubtedly, the temple of Goddess Sharda. From ancient times the valley was known as Shardapeeth, meaning abode of the goddess Sharda. One of the eighteen Maha-Shakti Peethas, Sharada Peeth represents the spiritual location of the goddess Sati's fallen right hand. Sharada Peeth is one of the three holiest sites of pilgrimage for Kashmiri Pandits, along with the Martand Sun Temple and the Amarnath Temple. Sharda is the goddess of learning and for centuries the valley was the site of higher learning. According to Sir George Grierson (1851-1941) author of " linguistic survey of India, "For up to two thousand years Kashmir has been the house of Sanskrit learning and from this small valley they have issued masterpieces of history, poetry, romance, fable and philosophy." Alberuni (973-1048 CE), famous Persian mathematician and astrologer, who visited India wrote in his travel account kitab-ul Hind that "Benaras and Kashmir are two great centres of Hindu Science. It is Kashmir that has produced the greatest historians, poets and philosophers.
 
 
The ancient temple of Goddess Sharda – the epitome of religious learning
 
 
The only shrine of the Goddess Sharda-The goddess of learning, in the subcontinent, it was considered as the epitome of religious learning. The ancient temple of Sharda is in Kishanganga (Neelum) Valley, in Sharda Sub-division of the Neelum Valley District. It is in a small village called Shardi or Sardi near the confluence of Kishanganga and Madhumati rivers. It is about 40 miles North West of Wular Lake as the crow flies.
 
 
The shrine of Sharda is situated in the Keram Kishanganga valley at a hillock across the Kishanganga River on the bank of Madhumati, which joins it near the shrine. Surrounded by snow-capped mountains and dense forests, it commands a panoramic view.
 
 
The shrine has been described as having a gateway through an impressive staircase with flanking walls, which had 64 big steps and 300 small steps. The big steps were twelve feet long, two feet wide and eighteen inches thick. From top of the stairs a good view of the surroundings was visible. The shrine occupied four canals of land, of which two were filled with stone. At the centre of the stone floor was the stone temple. There was a dharmshala around it, the roof was made up of wood. At present the staircase survives with only sixty- three steps.
 
 
Popular beliefs and stories among devotees and pilgrims till Pakistan occupied the territory
 
 
There were numerous other smaller temples and places of Hindu worship around the temple. Till 1948, there was a regular Shardapeeth Yatra, which started on Ganga Ashtami. The devotees would visit the temple during navratras as well. Punjabi khatris would come and perform hawan and sacrifice goats on Ashtami. Later due to intervention of a famous Sanyasin Mathra Devi, the goat sacrifice was shifted to Navami. Other places pilgrims and devotees would stop at, were the various 'nags' or water springs/ small lakes around the area. The main nag was Mukhsar, where on Sapta Babashi water would flow out like pearls. Lord Ram is said to have bathed in the nag. Another nag of veneration was Maharudra Nag. There are numerous old broken temples around the area. Many nags have Stone idols placed in the spring. The yatras continued till Pakistan Occupied the Territory.
 
 
During the reign of Kanishka, Sharda was the largest academic institution in Central Asia. It imparted education on Buddhist religion, history, geography, structural science, logic and philosophy. It also evolved a script of its own known as Sharda script. The University was constructed by Kanishka from north to south on a rectangular pedestal and was totally different from other ancient buildings in the sub-continent. According to historical evidence, around 5000 people resided at Sharda. A key source of mythological knowledge about the shrine is the Sharada Sahasranama manuscript, written in the Sharada script, and communicated by Prakash Swami, the last Purohit (or chief priest) of the Sharada temple before the Partition of India.'
 
 
How’s the famous temple described in books and referred as a source of valley’s reputation
 
 
The earliest available references to Sharada Peeth are found in the Nilamata Purana (6th-8th century CE). In the 10th century, Al-Beruni in his book describes Sharda as being situated in the South-West of Srinagar, considered extremely holy by Indians, where on the eve of Baisakhi, people come from all over India for pilgrimage. He laments the fact he could not visit it due to snow and extremely difficult terrain. He adds that the shrine is venerated both locals and pilgrims, describing it alongside famous temples of the time such as the Multan Sun Temple and the Somnath temple, suggesting that at that time, Sharada Peeth was among the most revered places of Worship in India. Besides, Al-Beruni, Abul Fazal, Bilhana and Kalhana have also described Sharda. In his description of Prayapura (present-day Srinagar), the 11th century poet Bilhana mentions Sharada Peeth, referring to it as the source of Kashmir's reputation as a centre of learning. In Kalhana's 12th century CE work Rajatarangini, he describes Sharada Peeth as a site venerated by Hindus.
 
 
It is at this temple that Adi Shankaracharya received the right to sit on the Sarvanjnanapeetham (Throne of Wisdom). The first verse of 'Prapanchsar' composed by Adi Shankaracharya is devoted to the praise of Sharada. The Sharada image at Shringeri Sharadamba temple in South India was once said to have been made of sandalwood, which is said to have been taken by Shankaracharya from here. The Vaishnava saint Swami Ramanuja travelled all the way from Srirangam to refer to Bodhayana's vritti on Brahma Sutras preserved here, before commencing work on writing his commentary on the Brahma sutras, the Sri Bhasya. Traditions pass down through centuries point to existence of a great of learning at Sharda. Saraswat Brahmin communities in Karnataka are said to perform a ritual of moving seven steps towards Kashmir before retracing their steps during the yagnopavit ceremony. Pan Bharat Sharada Stotram is a part of morning prayers "Namaste Sarada Devi Kashmira mandala vasini".
 
 
The unfortunate chain of events and the Current Status of temple
 
 
Post 1947, when Pakistan invaded Kashmir and occupied Neelum valley, Swami Nandlal Ji, who was the priest of Sharda Peeth,carried Idols from Shrada Peeth to Kupwara. At present some idols are in Devibal at Baramulla and some in Tikker at Kupwara. Save Sharda Committee Kashmir (SSCK) under Ravinder Pandita has been in the forefront of the efforts to save Sharda Peeth and start prayers and pilgrimages there. There has been contact with civil society members in Neelum Valley. Consequently, flowers were offered at the shrine on 2 November 2016 by civil society members of Neelum. A picture of Sharda Devi was installed in the shrine on 3 March 2017 and soil and flowers from the shrine were sent to India. The SSCK then distributed the soil to the Shankaracharayas of the four mutts in India. In February 19, at the Kumbh Mela, a resolution was passed by all four Shankaracharayas for reopening of Sharda pilgrimage. In March 19, Pakistani media reported that the Pakistani Government is examining the opening of Sharada Peeth. However, no progress has been made. These are important milestones in the battle to reclaim Sharda Peeth, a temple and a university which was as great as Nalanda.
 
 
Other Temples and Shrines in POJK and their miserable condition
 
 
Mirpur city had many temples, most of which got submerged when Mangla Dam was constructed. Mangla Devi Temple apparently is visible when water levels are low in Mangla Dam. Travel books like Trip Advisor talk about a Shivala temple and Banganga temple at Mirpur but no other information is available on them. Similarly, there was a Devi Gali temple near Poonch in POJK. Devi Gali has lush green grassy grounds surrounded by dense pine forest and mountains. The name Devi Gali is linked to this area's history. According to locals, this spot was a place of worship for Hindus, years before occupation of the area by Pakistan.
 
 
Ali Baig Gurdwara, a popular place of worship for Sikhs in Ali Baig village, has been turned by the POJK authorities into the Muhammad Yaqoob Shaheed High School for Girls. Located on the north-eastern side of the Mirpur-Jhelum link road in Bhimber tehsil, the three-storey building also served as a refugee camp for three years, then a police station, a soap factory and a primary school for girls. The gurdwaras domes have been decorated with lotus flowers and can be seen from a distance.
 
 
In 2014, efforts were made to document archaeological sites in Pakistan Occupied Jammu Kashmir. About 100 sites were documented in Muzaffarabad Division. During the survey, monuments including Thorchi Fort, Sharda Fort,Chak fort, Barnad Fort, Aion Fort Ranbir Singh bardari ,Hindu temples, rock-cut sanctuaries, Nagara, baradari wells, Ali Baig Gurdwara and rock boulders with historical impressions were documented. Researchers found that of them had become shelters for stray animals and drug addicts. 14 Ramkot Fort in Mirpur District near Mangla dam is built over ancient temples. Excavations have proven existence of temples.